6930: The Potential Use of Organically Grown Dye Plants in the Organic Textile Industry: Experiences and Results on Cultivation and Yields of Dyers Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L.), Dyers Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait.) and Weld (Reseda luteola L.)

Hartl, A. and Vogl, C.R. (2003) The Potential Use of Organically Grown Dye Plants in the Organic Textile Industry: Experiences and Results on Cultivation and Yields of Dyers Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L.), Dyers Knotweed (Polygonum tinctorium Ait.) and Weld (Reseda luteola L.). Journal of Sustainable Agriculture 23(2):pp. 17-40.

Summary

The organic cultivation of dye plants for the certified natural textiles industry is an emerging and promising sector of organic farming. In 1999 a field trial was done with different provenances of Dyer’s Chamomile (Anthemis tinctoria L.), Dyer’s Knotweed Polygonum tinctorium Ait.), and Weld (Reseda luteola L.) on two organic farms in Lower Austria. Yields, dyestuff content, and quality parameters were analyzed. Dry matter yields of Weld ranged between 0.7 and 2.7 t ha-1, of Dyer’s Chamomile (flower heads) between 1.1 and 1.8 t ha-1. Significant differences were found between seed Weld provenances as well as between those of Dyer’s Chamomile. The total leaf dry matter of Dyer’s Knotweed (2 cuts) ranged at both sites on average 3.1 t ha-1. Seed provenances did not show differences. The total flavonoid content of Weld ranged between 1.53 and 4.00%, of Dyer’s Chamomile between 0.84 and 1.5%. The content of indican in Dyer’s Knotweed ranged between 0.50 and 1.45% of leaf dry matter, the calculated theoretical content of indigo ranged between 0.22 and 0.64% of leaf dry matter. The general use fastness properties differ according to species and provenance. Both high and low values were achieved. The data on the cultivation of dye plants in organic farming show promising results. Research should address improvement in yields and quality, development of dyestuff extracts, and optimization of dyeing methods. Research on dye plants needs a systemic look at the whole chain including producers, processors, trade,
and consumers.

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